​     Cathedrals are some of the last artifacts that communicate life and values from the Middle Ages. Chartres Cathedral in France exists as a time capsule of its culture, as an exhibition of religious, material, and social values as well as the expert craft guild that flourished in the city. Capturing the structure of the society and the cathedral became the objective of this project: a 21st century men's and women's wear fashion collection. 

     The menswear collection, an Honors Thesis, focuses on the architectonic aspects of the patriarchal society and the Cathedral. The women's wear expresses the similarities between the cathedrals stained glass and the women of medieval society. The didacticism of the glass helps present the juxtaposing values of women in medieval culture. 

      I used texts from both UC Davis and University of the Arts London, explored several other medieval cathedrals, and spent time visiting Chartres Cathedral to grasp the complexity of the topic. The collections use digital prints and glass to enhance the research. The final product of this research has been exhibited in the Fashion and Design Society's student fashion show during the 2012 UC Davis Picnic Day to an outstanding review and an audience of Deans, Faculty, and Donors from all over the University.  

     This project was funded by a Presidential Undergraduate Fellowship Grant, Fashion Group International, San Francisco, Scholarship, and supported by Dharma Traders.  
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Honors Thesis

Fiat Lux 
Chartres Cathedral's Representation of Medieval Culture Seen Through 21st Century Design.
Please click on an image to open the gallery as the gallery's thumbnails distorts the images.  
Womenswear -
Menswear -
     Each women's wear piece is inspired by the four characters present in the lives of medieval women: Eve as the innocent beginnings of womanhood - the Fallen Eve as a medievally believed manipulator of men, usurper of power, and mother of all medieval woman's intent - the Medieval Woman torn between the archetypes of the Fallen Eve and Mary the Queen of Heaven - and the woman most worshiped in the medieval culture, Mary. 
This page exhibits some of my creative thought process as a snap shot from the formative stages of the Fiat Lux Menswear Collection.  


Collection Title: From Lucas to Daemon  (Fiat Lux UCD PUF Grant Project)
Collection Music: Rhinestone Eyes by the Gorillaz
The Character: I want the character to have the feel of "looking fair and feeling foul". I want his style too to be seducing. There was a lot about the church in those days about seducing people which goes along with my research on their philosophy. 
The Materials: I've found some bits of "woven plastic" that are interesting, could be used for piping or something to give it a little bit of a hint of light in the dark. Two other fabrics I found were quite serendipitous. The one is a jersey with a plastic layer fused on top. The other one is more of its sheer counter part which I found at Target (a cheaper M&S) and it is the same plastic print, it is just a shower curtain. I also got a leather hide. More materials to come i.e. black/gray wool suiting, black/gray sheep skin, and jersey?
This garment largely speaks for its self. Obviously, I see the stone crafted collar as an amazing challenge considering it wasnt made with textil principles in mind.
I love that this character is a part of the cathedral looming and staring down at you as you walk around to the back end of the cathedral. He looks like a lingering carcass. It speaks volumes about the age of the cathedral and its institutions.
To me this sets a good mood.
This image as well show the dark and crevasse areas of the cathedral. It is a light picture though. They had the doors open.
This is such a beautiful masculine symbol.
Interesting for garment detail.
This is a beautiful ornamentation that could reflect some of the ornamentation on the garments outside. I'm having a hard time of thinking how to incorporate that into modern menswear with out it being too feminine.
Great garments
Again, great garments.
These creatures I found caged in the stone on these cathedral pillars were so creepy and unsettling.
This is a view of a building in New York that I feel really fits as our modern structure and institution. It gives that same feel of things being busy in the dark.
More New York
These were some ideas I had with regards to the final presentation. The upper examples could be for hood off garments and the full covering for the hooded garments.
This is the plastic fused jersey. It's really nice. its drapey but doesnt stretch great.
This is a (bad) picture of the previous textile up close.
This is the transparent counter part I found in a very opposite corner of the world.
And here again is the shower curtain. I like what it does to the objects on the other side.
This is a small sheet of the woven plastic in one of the patterns.
Again same plastic.
And again same plastic, but I really like how this one shows off more of its optical potential.
This is the second design on the plastic.
And again showing more properties.
A small calfskin with one polished side. It drapes very well as calf skins do. If I buy more hides though, I'm not buying calf again. The texture is amazing, and I'm not Stella McCartney, but I cant do the calf thing. I didnt realize until I got it home.
Sketches:
Fabrics:
Here is the backed satin. It is pretty traditional trench coat /mac material. It's not wool, but its really nice.
I still havent decided between my sweatshirt jersey. The color and the texture are what I'm mulling over. I also want to be sure that it fits with the rest of the fabrics.
Here is the lighter in color jersey. it is less of a fleece than the other.
This fabric is incredible. It moves like a very tightly woven wool. It has the gray on one side and black on the other. This helps with deciding if I want garments gray or black and doesnt affect yardage.
This is the stone textured digital print test swatch. I'll be developing it into a whole textile. This is the color I want to add in with all of this black and gray. Let me know if you think it should be more gold or if it should be less colored.
This is the "creepy face" digital print test swatch. I'm still designing it and want quite a bit of feed back. I still need to color balance it to match the base hue of the stone fabric, I like the variation in shade but it needs to be developed more. Talk to me.
This will be the piping fabric, so it will only been seen in small portions which will distort the squares and make it optically more interesting.
This is the piping I'm thinking of using. it will have a mind of its own and create structure which is what I'm looking to harness.
Here is the shower curtain fabric for the vests/wifebeater tanks. I'm really excited about how its going to look on the body.
And this is the faux fur for the big puffer jacket hood.
I left the older things on the website if you wish to compare.  I tried to keep the silhouette simpler, emphasizing seam lines, and working with the materials. 

- Miq